Rock Climbing

There are 4 separate crags in the Kinloch area. The first is in Kinloch itself, at the eastern end of the bay. The other 3 are on the same eastern peninsula but further out in the bay and can be accessed via the W2K mountain bike track or by boat. Access details are given in the introduction for each crag.

K1 (19 routes)

Kinloch is not a very large crag with less than 20 routes in total, however offer a great days climbing with easy access and suburb easy to moderate climbs. It gets the sun late morning so in winter the afternoon is best while in summer you can spend the afternoon swimming after a mornings climbing.

Climbing first started at Kinloch in October 1991 when Mark Jones along with others based at the Tiho Venture school started to develop the area. The crag has been developed with an effort to minimise the visual and physical impact of climbing. Native trees have been preserved and naked bolts used on the most visible parts of the cliff, so bring along your key hole hangers or a set or wires.

The main Cliff is split in two, with the climbs on the right hand end being out in the open while the left hand end of the cliff is tucked away in the bush. When you arrive at the crag most people park their bags adjacent to the large right facing corner of

Where to From Here just right of a small boulder that has a selection of belay bolts.

The next section of cliff is 10m to the left tucked away in the bush.

Type: Crag
Altitude: 400m
Aspect: North West

Once you have reach the settlement of Kinloch drive straight past the golf course veering slightly right onto Marina Terrace then left down Keitha Place. Park you car at the far end of Keitha place. The crag is a 1 minutes walk from here. The rock is riolite and very solid and the routes are generally all high quality.

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K2 (16 routes)

K2 is fearsomely steep overhanging crag that rises out of the bush above Whangamata bay. It is a riolite cliff with a fully welded conglomerate layer which produces large holds and makes climbing at this angle possible. The crag is situated on the eastern side of Whangamata’s (Kinloch) bay eastern peninsula and about 800m from the lake. It is not the series of lakeside cliffs that can bee seen from the Kinloch beach.

Type: Crag
Altitude: 460m
Aspect: North West
Walk time: 50-60min

Walking (or better still Mountain bike): - Take the Mountain bike track “W2K” that goes right past Kinloch crag and up onto Boojum Del Crs, continue along the W2K mountain bike track up the hill and out onto Whanagamata Peninsula. After about 30-40 minutes you come to a large pine tree plantation (with views of lake). From here continue along the track for another 10 minutes till you reach a rough track heading down the hill and marked with cairns. If you come to a point in the track that folks around a tree, you have gone to far, head back 300m. Take the rough track down the hill to the crag, (Track not suitable for Mountain bikes)
By boat - Head out into the bay, about 2 km from Kinloch, and on the left hand side is a small beech just past the lake side cliffs. Just up from the beach is a small cliff & cave with a few steep boulder problems. Head round the right-hand side of the cliff where you’ll find a rough track. The track leads up the hill to the base of the crag. Routes are described from left to right. The large roof at the left hand end has the following lines.

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Te Tuhi Point Crag (3 routes)

Type: Crag
Altitude: 540m
Aspect: West
Walk time: 50min

Walking or Mountain bike): - From Kinloch take the w2k Mountain bike track past K2. At the top of the hill you will get to the outer peninsular loop and “Kinloch look out” track. Take this track and follow it down into the saddle then out onto the outer peninsular. After 30min to 40min you’ll get to a view point looking out over the western bays. Back track about 200m then take a rough track out towards the lake and to the top of the Saddle Sore bluff. Abseil off trees down Saddle Sore or the chimney of Mountain Bike Madness.
By boat - Head out into the bay, about 5 km, then crash up through the bush to the base of Pines and Needles.

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K3 -Whangamata Bay Heads (4 routes)

On the very southern tip of Whangamata Bay eastern peninsula, is a large series of cliffs. The south facing lower wall, is a riolite crag with a multiple crack lines.

Type: Crag
Altitude: 600m
Aspect: South

Access to this crag is by boat only, there is no beach and you therefore require a fairly charm day or one with winds from the north. In a howling south westerly getting onto the rocks would be fairly treacherous. Never the less there are a few places you can pull your small tinny (boat) out of the water and onto the rocks. Crash through the bush to the base of the cliff, 100m from the lake shore. So why bother, well this crag is in a fantastic location over looking the lake and central plateau with some of the best crack lines around.

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Kinloch Bouldering (36 routes)

Type: Boulder

From Taupo head north across the Waikato river then at the top of the hill turn left down Poihipi Rd. After about 10 km turn left onto Whangamata road, then left again onto Kinloch Road.
Once you have reach the settlement of Kinloch drive straight past the golf course veering slightly right onto Marina Terrace then left down Ketha Place.
Park you car at the far end of Ketha place. The boulders are tucked away in the trees immediately across from the end off the road. The crag is 30 seconds walk away.

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